Style Mojo

Pop Goes The Satchel

2012-01-25T11:21:00.001-06:00

A marvelous update on a highly classic leather satchel. The old-school design combined with fluorescent colors, metallics and even patent finishes are a stroke of genius. Although one doesn't have to actually go to Cambridge to carry these, they sure make us want to take an extra trip to the library. Read more about The Cambridge Satchel Company story from Fashionista.com. Shown - The Batchel; The Metallic; The Classic.

Marmalade Skies

2012-01-21T13:41:00.000-06:00

Winter's just begun and we're already dreaming of spring. Escapism? Definitely. This particular shade of orange is so refreshing. Especially on such highly flattering silhouettes, for day and evening. Now, just picture yourself in a boat on a river...

Elie Saab SS2012 RTW.

What Color Is Your Parachute?

2011-11-15T07:14:00.000-06:00

Just because the weather is bleak, doesn't mean your wardrobe has to be. Fight off the gloom winter and have a little fun with color. Playing against type, these lighter and brighter hues can soften the otherwise abrupt landing into months of freezing temperatures. An unexpected choice like this marigold warms up your look, and the whole room. To avoid the choppy effect of high contrast, keep it tonal. Here the gold shoe, barely-so yellow hose and matching coat maintain the flow from head to toe, which is both a more sophisticated look and also lengthening. Philosophy Di Alberta Ferretti F2011 RTW

Again, this lavender ensemble would be a very counter-intuitive color choice for fall, but all the power to you for it. Philosophy Di Alberta Ferretti F2011 RTW

Still keeping on the lighter side of things, sometimes the most dramatic color is no color at all. Instead of the usual funereal black, you can achieve the same neutral, monochrome effect but you will stand out from the crowd without looking like you are trying too hard. Beyond the usual suspects of camel, ivory, beige, taupes and metallics, some of my current favorites include 'greige' (grey-beige) and 'peige' (blush pink-beige). These soft, barely-there color inflections are flattering too, since they let you stand out behind the understatement. Philosophy Di Alberta Ferretti F2011 RTW

Horsing Around

2011-11-14T07:32:00.000-06:00

Autumn fashion seems to always include a dose of equestrian-inspired pieces. Every year. And I love the sporty romance of it all. Except, that is, the actual riding of horses part. To me, sadly, that is sheer terror. I'd rather keep my riding-boot-clad feet firmly on the ground. But that's the beauty of inspiration, isn't it? The resulting execution doesn't have to be literal. Thank goodness.

J Crew Hacking jacket, Asos midi skirt with equestrian print, Burberry Bridle leather riding boot.

Fine Feathered Friends

2011-11-13T11:18:00.000-06:00

But of course, "It is not only fine feathers that make fine birds."
-from the fable The Jay And The Peacock, Aesop (620 BC- 564 BC)

Liberty Blue Hera silk scarf, House of Harlow 1960 feather row gold cuff, Matthew Williamson feather and sequin embellished silk skirt.

Shiny Happy People

2011-11-10T17:57:00.018-06:00

Add a little glitter to your holiday wardrobe. Vince Cluster sequin top, Deena & Ozzy glitter wedge boot, Alice + Olivia Silk Ritchie silk crepe sequined dress.

Reading Is Always In Style

2011-04-12T14:52:00.022-05:00

"Read for escape, read for adventure, read for romance, but read the great writers. You will find to your delight that they are easier and more joy to read than the second-rate ones. They touch your imagination and your deepest yearnings, and when your imagination is stirred it can lead you down paths you never dreamed you would travel. If you read great language you will develop, without your realizing it, an appreciation of excellence that can shape your life."

- Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, 1980.

Reprinted in The Best-Loved Poems of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Selected and Introduced by Caroline Kennedy.

The Shirtdress

2011-03-24T11:08:00.033-05:00

Kate Spade New York Harriet Short Sleeve Shirtdress

Oh shirtdress, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways. As the name suggests, it offers the practicality of a shirt with the ease and femininity of a dress. A recent post from the NY Times City Room blog commemorates the 100th anniversary of the tragic Triangle Shirtwaist Fire of March 25th, 1911.

The article outlines the history of the shirtwaist from it's demure origins at the turn of the 20th century; to sporty attire for the Gibson Girl; marching along with the women's movement through the decades towards its rightful place as an American classic. Offering a trio of bonus features: sleeves (preferably elbow length), forgiving structure and a defined waist, what's not to love?

There are many renditions today, from slimmer 70s styles, to those with more fuller skirts with Mad Men-esque 50s flare. Just pick your silhouette and you can make the look as groovy or polished as you like. With style as enduring as it is liberating, the shirtdress remains a must-have piece in any woman's wardrobe.

Necessity, Invention & Style

2011-03-23T08:02:00.004-05:00

Globe Trotter® Centenary Suitcase

Necessity has always been the mother of invention and is often the cornerstone of the most innovative style solutions.

During WWII ration-induced nylon shortages, ladies drew on their stocking seams. Ten years ago, the inventor of Spanx merely cut off an existing pair of control-top tights and the rest is fashion empire history.

Travel is one of the best crucibles for doing the maximum with a minimum. Frankly, having very little in hand is one of the joys of travel. It is actually quite freeing. Packing the perfect suitcase, is not only an art, it also makes you flex those mixing and matching muscles.

Let's be clear, doing the most with the least on vacay doesn't mean only wearing khaki pants, trainers and a fanny pack the whole time. Instead we're looking for practical solutions that still let you express your style in your foreign environment. Or at least let's not completely give up.

On a mid-winter getaway, where temperatures plunged to well below zero (Farenheit), my Hunter rain boot fleece liners became my go-to footwear solution. I even wore them in my high wedge lace up winter boots. This may not sound stylish, nor revolutionary, but those liners actually added some lodge-appropriate flare. And, just as important under the circumstances, I avoided frost-bite all the while.

In a hot weather destination, a similar suitcase coup may come from using the same piece as a beach cover-up, lounge wear and evening wear. Simple, stylish and space saving.

The beauty of the 'work-around' is it forces us out of the same old way of thinking and dressing. And not just on vacation. The truth is, everyone has a style work-around in everyday life, be it budget, figure, dress codes, or unexpected changes of plan. Having limitations makes for better style. Force yourself to try new ways of using what you already have. You'll be pleasantly surprised.

The Ides Of March

2011-03-15T14:00:00.008-05:00

Death of Julius Caeser, by Italian artist Vincenzo Camuccini

March 15th is known as the Ides of March in the Roman calendar. It is also the date Julius Caesar was killed way back in 44 BC, after he ignored a seer's warning to beware. So glad we don't have his problems. And thrilled to have many more sartorial options than just a toga. But still, it can be tricky to figure out how to dress for the ever changing weather during this shoulder season. Melting, raining, snowing, sunny, warm - all in the same day sometimes.

Some simple approaches can help manage the transition to warmer weather, without freezing or looking ridiculously ahead of the temperature:

1) Lighten Up - Lighter color and lighter textures are a breath of fresh air now. Like a crisp white cotton shirt or a brightly colored shell under a cardigan. If you've been wintering in dark neutrals, time to crack out the color. Switch to lighter footwear as soon as you can. I love boots and all, but at this point can't wait to store them for next year.

2) Embrace Layering - Two words, cashmere sweaters. The thinner knits will still keep you cozy but feel lighter than winter layers. Get out your spring wool coats too. Try using jackets as outerwear with multiple layers underneath.

3) Spring Forward - Mixing in even just one piece that harkens the warm seasons to come will help manage the wait. It could be a springy shift dress, but with opaque tights. Even just a bright colored scarf will do. Or a brighter lip color.

Good style mirrors your environment. It's time for your wardrobe to reflect the much welcomed longer and brighter days outside.

Fit For A (Future) Queen

2011-02-26T10:00:00.001-06:00

The Eva Franco Monarch Dress from Sunday Brunch Dress, a site you will love to peruse for their delightful range of dresses, from slightly louche to glam to prim, but somehow all decidedly ladylike. There will be one to suit your mood. This one scores many points for a soft yet eye-catching print, a waist defined by a belt with hardware, and a full skirt. We've seen this silhouette on First Ladies of yore and of late. And, as the name suggests, a dress perhaps worth getting for the upcoming Royal Wedding. Even if one may be watching it on TV. At 3 AM local time. Why not?

Never Say Never

2011-02-25T06:00:00.002-06:00

That new ad campaign with Julianne Moore is what did it.

It's what got me: a) to enter a Talbot's store; b) to try something on; and c) to actually consider buying something.

Intrigued, I had to see whether the amazing styling and art direction would translate into merchandise with a new take on their traditional stock of somewhat-to-very dowdy pieces.

Well, I'd give it mixed reviews, but was pleasantly surprised. The usual array of boxy hum-drum basics were punctuated by some temptingly modern and wearable lady-like pieces.

Like a Chanel-esque tweedy cream shift dress, to the knee, with a well structured waist. Or a timeless black jersey dress, with sleeves (it's hard to find good dresses with sleeves). Or these neutral kitten heel leather sling-back pumps with a darling bow.

In the end, these new ads underscore the power of styling and art direction, not to mention the über-coolness of Julianne more. Oh yes, and the fact that it's not what you wear, but how you wear it.

Kelly Green With Envy

2011-02-24T06:15:00.009-06:00

The Vintage Valise Kendra Tote from Cole Haan.

Botanical Bliss

2011-02-23T12:41:00.020-06:00

Couldn't we all use a little short cut to Spring right about now? Like this Stella McCartney Forsythia Botanical Cotton Coat; this blue hued Thomas Paul botanical scarf; a Moulinette Soeurs Tuileries dress. Or simply stock up on antique botanical prints to adorn your walls. What saves the coat, dress and the scarf from being too twee is the exaggerated size of the print. To save yourself, be sure to pair them with more edgy, less saccharine pieces. The best part is, you don't even need to have a green thumb.

A Closet Full Of Shoes

2011-02-18T11:38:00.015-06:00

Party shoes with frills and bows,

Workin’ shoes with steel toes,

Sneakers, flip-flops. And galoshes,

Brogans, oxfords, satin pumps,

Dancin’ taps and wooden clumps,

Shoes for climbin’ shoes for hikes,

Football cleats and baseball spikes,

Shoes of shiny patent leather,

Woolly shoes for winter weather,

Loafers, rough-outs, sandals, spats,

High heels, low heels, platforms, flats,

Moccasins and fins and flippers,

Shower clogs ballet slippers…

A zillion shoes and just one missin’--

That’s the one that matches this’n.

-Closet Full Of Shoes, from 'Falling Up' by Shel Silverstein

Oh, to wear shoes again - outside. Soon enough, my lovelies. Spring is on its way.

Pringle of Scotland

2011-01-24T07:44:00.016-06:00

Pringle of Scotland is one of a growing list heritage brands that has managed to remain relevant, hip and authentic. This 195 year-old Scottish knitwear company is credited with inventing two beacons of British style: the Argyle pattern (quickly adopted by the Duke of Windsor and ergo the rest of the fashionable set); and the twinset. I mean, what could they do for an encore? Well, how about their women's PreFall2011 collection, heavily influenced by their 1950s and 60s archives. Like Kate Middleton meets the Queen Mother. Trust me, wee lasses, you will want each and every look. Excellent for traipsing around Balmoral, or, really, anywhere else.

Star & Stripes

2011-01-05T14:01:00.015-06:00

The star, of course, is the wonderful & talented designer Anne Cramer, of Minneapolis. The classic stripes are courtesy of The Flynn Skirt from her new spring line. In five glorious color options. A universally flattering cut and fit. And about a zillion outfit possibilities. These skirts are a sure-fire cure for the mid-winter blues. In fact, Anne just may have single handedly come up with an antidote for the mean reds. How delightful.

Cashmere Cocoon

2010-12-19T13:22:00.013-06:00

So what if we haven't used the term in, um, over a decade? We're still cocooning. At least at this time of year. Why not be cozy in style in a 100% cashmere robe, like this one from Restoration Hardware? Treat yourself or your favorite gal. While you're at it, throw in these slippers, for good measure. A bit indulgent, but totally worth the daily dose of luxurious loungewear.

Grayzing

2010-11-08T10:02:00.002-06:00

I don't usually go for suede handbags. But I do love gray as an all purpose neutral. And leather (vs. pleather). This flint gray suede bookbag from Gap.com is a tempting fall addition.

Equestrienne

2010-09-06T18:00:00.008-05:00

Equestrian influences are everywhere this season, steeped in romance and gentility. From John Galliano in his collection for Christian Dior, to Gucci, even Anthropologie's September catalogue is a tribute to Argentina's Criollo horses. The look is long, lithe and timeless, personified by Carla Bruni on this 2008 cover of Vanity Fair. Even if you usually have nothing to do with horses, fear not. Just borrow elements - a skinny pant, tall riding boots, a fitted blazer or crisp white blouse. Or this horse motif skirt. Just don't go for the whole outfit. Unless you're headed to the stables, leave the riding crop and helmet at home.

Circumstantial Style Cravings

2010-09-03T09:00:00.011-05:00

It seems that for style, as for our psyche, a change can be as good as a rest. Or something like that. A series of delightful escapes this summer were a reminder of how a new setting can refresh one's sartorial point of view. A 'when-in-Rome' kind of new inspiration. Even if you're nowhere near Rome. For example, during one north woods cabin stay, our lovely hostess sported her Bemidji Woolen Mills red and black Buffalo check wool jacket, a recent gift from her father. This highly practical piece was as accidentally hip as it was unself-consciousnessly flattering. Not only did I suddenly have to have that jacket, but these boots. Or these boots. None of which necessarily translate directly back into my day-to-day life. But then again, the interpretation shouldn't be literal. Where have you been lately that influenced your style?

The Sweetest Cape

2010-08-27T14:00:00.022-05:00

Oh, the invigorating fall ritual of back-to-school clothing and the return of layers, boots, coats, sweaters and tights. Beyond these autumn staples, consider adding something like this darling cape. A more grown up version of its boho cousin, the poncho, the cape is at once elegant and practical, playing into both military and collegiate themes of the moment (with a dash of Sherlock Holmes). An easy breezy nod to the chill in the air, before the deep freeze. Wear them with pants - skinny or flared leg. Mix it with less serious pieces to avoid looking like Nanny McPhee. Black can be severe anyway and a bit clerical in this silhouette. If plum is more color than you'd like, try other neutrals like camel or olive.

Camel: A Love Story

2010-08-12T13:00:00.002-05:00

If you only buy one thing this fall (now, really, who is going to buy just one?) get yourself something in camel. It could be a wool coat reminiscent of the one Ali McGraw wore in the 1970 classic movie Love Story, a sumptuous wide-leg wool trouser like these from Chloé's Fall 2010 RTW collection, or even a buttery cashmere sweater. Anything. Even wear it from head-to-toe, just vary the textures. Check out a recent NYTimes magazine piece on the camel coat history (fascinating) and revival, Return Engagement - Camelot. Or just peruse the entire Michael Kors' Fall Winter 2010 collection.

On The Boardwalk

2010-08-08T22:54:00.014-05:00

The upcoming HBO series Boardwalk Empire has all the makings of the next Mad Men-esque style & substance small screen tour de force. Mobsters on the rise, Atlantic City in the 1920s, and the 'babes' of which, beautifully depicted in this photo shoot by Ellen Von Unwerth featured in September's Vanity Fair. Gorgeously crisp and romantic, the feminine prohibition-era looks are as much 'now' as they are retro inspired. The behind-the-scenes footage of the shoot is a must-see. Carmella Soprano never looked this good. And that beach - makes me want to savor these remaining weeks of summer.

Rain Or Shine

2010-07-08T06:00:00.023-05:00

As the weather alternates between punishing heat and tropical downpours, the umbrella becomes a key summer piece. And not just for rain. As skin savvy women know, umbrellas or parasols offer great sun protection. Admittedly, toting a parasol is bit much to juggle on a daily basis. Maybe that's why certain celebrities have their people carry one for them. Admittedly, outside of a Monet painting or Merchant Ivory film, a parasol can seem a bit twee or worse, costumey. However, after reading this article on the downsides of sunscreen (which we are all slathering on religiously, right?) in the NYTimes, a parasol seems like a good idea. Just think - shade everywhere you go and a whole new category of accessories through which to express yourself. How cool is that?

Shorts As Bloomies

2010-07-03T08:00:00.014-05:00

The leg continues to be a focal point of fashion this season, with shorts taking the place of leggings or skinny jeans as the temperatures soar. If you have the gams for it, this is your summer to show them off with every style of short under the sun. And not just for gardening. Dressy shorts are all the rage, or casual shorts dressed up with cute ballet flats or heels and a fancier top. But even when not the star of your outfit, shorts are useful. After a certain age, or degree of modesty, those shorter sun dresses that seem the rule rather than the exception, can feel a bit too short. One way to stylishly have a bit more mobility and security is to don shorts as 'bloomies' underneath. And if, as you bustle about your busy day, they do happen to be seen, all the better.

Shorts & Sweaters

2010-06-28T22:00:00.003-05:00

After some hot, humid stormy weather, the temperature dropped today. A reminder that shorts and sweaters are such a lovely combination. At once cozy and cool.

American Woman

2010-06-26T07:57:00.013-05:00

American Woman: Fashioning A National Identity, a current special exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, features iconic fashions through the ages. Archetypes explored include the 1890s Heiress and Gibson Girl; the 1900s Bohemian; the 1910s Patriot and Suffragette; the 1920s Flapper and the 1930s Screen Siren. A fascinating look into the evolving role of women in society and mode of dress as a sign of the times. On through August 15th. If you can't make it there, check out the 7-minute video of the gallery views. It left me wishing they'd continued through the 40s, 50s, 60s and 70s. The 80s are still a bit too close and, sadly, highly unflattering despite all the corporate world advances women made that decade. By the way, there is no voice over, so you can watch the video on mute at work and no one will be the wiser.

Summer Solstice Solace

2010-06-24T08:00:00.022-05:00

Summer occupies such a vast amount of psychological space and, seemingly, a disproportionate amount of closet space. It always amazes me how brief summer actually is, from both a seasonal and a sartorial perspective. Through the depths of winter, we yearn for the heat and sun, get a glimmer of it on a getaway, then dream of it some more as we slop through spring. Placating our chilled bones with Resort collection fantasies, we buy the sandals, the sun-dresses and sarongs. After all that waiting, and the occasional 90 degree day in April, shockingly, summer is only just now officially arrived. What? That's it? Yes, the longest day has passed and it's all downhill from here. But like with so many things, anticipation is half the fun and the reality all too brief. Now is the time to bask in all your summer style glory. All too soon, it will start to feel a wee bit too hot and too humid. We'll wonder, for this we pined? Once more crisp autumn will sound as good as it actually is. Until then, sip lemonade and enjoy these lazy hazy days.

Tie It Up In A Bow

2010-06-07T06:00:00.007-05:00

Nothing says 'summer' quite like gingham. And nothing says ironic cool quite like a bow tie. Combine the two with this 'Goshdarn Bowtie' from hipster-trad darling Pierrepont Hicks. This relatively new company has all the makings of a heritage brand, and is gaining momentum by the minute. Known for unexpected yet perfectly juxtaposed fabric pairings, ruggedly elegant authenticity and attention to every detail. Their limited edition collections of ties and bows are just the thing for that cutey-patooty new graduate or dapper dad in your life.

Nostalgic Bikini

2010-06-03T08:00:00.001-05:00

Esther Williams was right. Coverage is slimming and sexy, not to mention more sun safe. This Nostalgic Bikini is fabulous for those of us with not so great abs and a hankering for a bit of retro beach wear. Our mothers wore bathers like this back in the day. Now we know why.

The Unsung Bobby Pin

2010-06-02T08:00:00.009-05:00

Nanny is my nurse

She wears tissue paper in her dress

and you can hear it

She is English and has 8 hairpins

made out of bones

She says that's all she needs in

this life for Lord's sake

From Eloise, Kay Thompson (1955)

Whatever would we do without the hard-working bobby pin? As Nanny might say, "rawther" useful and "cawn't" live without them. Especially in this season of heat, humidity and all things bad hair weather.

Pretty Dresses

2010-05-31T08:00:00.001-05:00

Memorial Day weekend traditionally marks the start of summer whites. Thankfully we can ignore many of those outdated rules of fashion and have been sporting white for weeks, with the early onset of hot weather. Regardless, it's time again to fully embrace summer dressing and with it, the pretty summer dress. Like this collection of to-die-for cool cotton confections from Anne Cramer in Minneapolis. An absolute gem from the land of hidden gems. And lakes.

What's The Skinny On Pants?

2010-05-29T21:00:00.008-05:00

Jane Birkin

Dear Style Mojo: I have noticed that people in a state to which I am about to move, wear pants that are too short - I mean everyone! I want to be sure that I don't pack any out-of-date clothing. I thought skinny jeans were going to be a passing fad, but it appears I was wrong. In fact, they seem to be the go-to choice for everybody. Now that I have made peace with that, and actually enjoy flaunting my curves in this trend, I'm wondering if the style has elbowed out my wide-leg jeans. Should I get them tailored to a narrower cut or is it more a case of "anything goes"? - Perplexed by Pant Cuts

Dear Perplexed: Excellent question. As you know, a) those stubby mid-calf length pants must be burnt and never thought of again and b) something being 'on trend' or 'in fashion' simply means that it is available to be purchased, but doesn't mean you have to wear it, nor does it mean it's the only option. Style is a delicate balancing act of staying current while being true to yourself. Having said that, wider pants are now sashaying down the runways. So what to do about your wider legged pants? Keep them. When it comes to pant width, it's good to have the full range from skinny, to wide, with flared, match-stick and boot-cut styles in between. Wider legged jeans balance out your curves and are incredibly lengthening, but require a more fitted top, or a defined waist, and heels. Wear your skinny jeans with a longer top, at least to your hip. For more reassurance, check out this online Vogue post by author and style muse Amanda Brooks on the effortless, timeless cool of 60s It Girl, style icon and Hermès handbag namesake, Jane Birkin in a long flared jean. By the way, Brooks' inspiring book, I Love Your Style is definitely worth packing.

Spring In Your Step

2010-03-20T07:30:00.000-05:00

Like many aspects of shoulder-season dressing, picking the right spring footwear can be a puzzle. Cold in the morning, warm in the afternoon, often rainy, and even worse, still snowy. What to do?

When the days get longer and your winter boots start to feel clunky and down-right depressing, lighter colored leather boots are a good solution. Softer neutrals like beige, tan, taupe, or grey reflect the seasonal shift to lighter and brighter things. Either tall boots to the knee or ankle booties work well, nothing should finish mid-calf. Booties can be more comfy than most heels, and look fresh for day or night in a lighter neutral.

In the rain, tall rain boots are an obvious choice, but are a bit too cutesy and childlike for most offices. Even the most flattering Wellies are really only for walking in the slush, muck and rain. Change into regular shoes when you get to work or if the sun comes out.

For a spring version of a classic pump, try camel, python, grey or beige tones. As lovely as they are, the traditional pump, can seem sadly ho hum next to the now ubiquitous tricked out shoe options out there. Cut-out or caged shoes, somewhere between a sandal and a bootie, can be surprisingly comfortable, even at towering heights, thanks to the added support at the front of your foot.

For those who relegate heels to night time or to fancy sitting, cute flats let you cover a lot of ground in style. Ballet flats are always darling but the rounded toe can be a bit abrupt and get lost in a wider legged pant. Enter the pointy-toed flat, which even without a heel, elongates the leg. After all, that is the purpose of your feet - to lengthen your legs. And you thought is was mobility. Luckily, with the right footwear, you can have both. Long walks and long legs.

Spring Forward

2010-03-06T07:00:00.009-06:00

Indoors or out, no one relaxes

In March, that month of wind and taxes,

The wind will presently disappear,

The taxes last us all the year.

-Ogden Nash, "Thar She Blows"

After a prolonged and snow-heavy winter, the light has finally shifted in our favor and the spring thaw has begun. Very soon, we can shed our winter skins. Of course, after some more rounds of snow and cold. But even before the clocks move ahead next week, rummage through your storage closets and dust off those spring toppers. Or treat yourself to a new one (or two). Perhaps a classic trench in a color you've always loved or in one of the many current renditions of a neutral. Look for feminine details like this darling eyelet ruffle front. A bright green swing coat simply screams springtime. If the weather is still on the chilly side, which it will be, sleek wool coats in snappy colors offer a welcomed change from our voluminous heavy winter cocoons. Their clean silhouette, fresh hues and crisp lines are sure to put a spring in your step and help usher in the season to come. Yes, even tax season.

Trends RIP?

2010-02-23T11:00:00.008-06:00

A recent WSJ article caught my attention, "What's Out: The Fashion Trend" in which David Wolfe, a style trend analyst with 41 years in the business declares,"There are no more trends. Everything is in style." Considering the source, this may sound like a desperate cry for a career change, but he is partly right.

Yes, in recent decades, fashion has been overtly referential, borrowing from the past, but with subtle yet important reinterpretations to keep them current. Even with a view backwards, the momentum is always forward. For example, the strong shoulder looks a lot different in 2010 than it did back in 1988. Thank you Balmain. Browse through the article's slide show for iconic silhouettes from bygone decades that are still relevant today.

Unlike in previous eras, today no singular look or silhouette dominates the runways or the street. While this notion of 'anything goes' is certainly liberating, it puts the onus on the individual to figure out what to wear, and to ween themselves off external registers of what is 'in' or 'out.' You are free to figure out your own style. Music to my ears, but not necessarily an easy thing to achieve.

Of course trends themselves are not dead: trends exist and always will. The life-cycle of a trend is the source of eternal fascination - real life influencing fashion, and vice versa. Why does something look 'right'? And on whom? Can we accept the vagueness of 'I'll know it when I see it'? Figuring it all out is an art, not a science. A tick-list of must-haves does not a stylish wardrobe make. It involves equal parts tapping into social, cultural, political, and economic forces combined with raw instincts. A truism of all art, is it not?

Just to keep us all guessing, there is always the reactionary movement, often in the opposite direction. But let us not throw up our hands in dismay. Instead, take it as a reminder of how invigorating it is to be connected to the world around you; to be conscious of trends in music, art, books, film, politics, and society. Historical context helps us all understand the here and now and provides some clues as to what's next. At it's best, the fashion world is an interpreter of this swirling sea.

In the business of fashion, designers are under intense pressure to be newsworthy with each collection. Fashion editors must encapsulate the disparate fantasies on the runways into something their readers can buy. Themes from the collections evolve into the trend sound-bytes in fashion magazines and ultimately the merchandise stores promote. But when it comes to figuring out your own style expression, look to fashion as inspiration, not as dogma. Perhaps that is what David Wolfe was getting at. Sure, everything is in style. The trick is to figure out what style works for you. Definitely a trend worth following.

Mellow Yellow

2010-01-17T11:00:00.006-06:00

It must be the winter-induced sensory deprivation. Or could it be the resort collections tempting us with dreams of the beach? Perhaps the slightly longer daylight hours remind us that one day it will again be warm and sunny. Whatever the reason, a dash of yellow feels like a welcomed addition to your wardrobe right now. Glorious yellows are popping up everywhere, from light citrine, to bright daffodil, or warm goldenrod, beautifully captured here by brilliant London-based interior stylist Twig Hutchinson. In any shade, a vibrant pop of yellow is guaranteed to brighten the most drab winter ensemble and, along with it, your mood. From an unexpected outerwear accent, like a scarf, to your outfit's center stage in a dress, top, cardigan or sweater. For smaller doses, or if you prefer yellow away from the face, try it in a bag, thin belt, ring or watch face. A print can soften the bold effect, like in this brocade dress, embroidered top, or tunic. Plan ahead for your warm weather wardrobe with a butter-toned trench, or an airy beach dress. Remember, a little goes a long way: Just one yellow piece will do. Mix it with darker neutrals now, like charcoal, mocha, or olive green; and lighter ones later, like ivory, Robin's egg blue, or light grey. Seasonal affective disorder doesn't stand a chance.

Stay Puffed

2010-01-05T21:00:00.002-06:00

Once the temperatures dip below zero, where it's been for about a week with no end in sight, the puffer coat is one of the smartest outerwear options. To avoid looking like you're wearing a giant duvet, or being mistaken for a marshmallow man, go for styles that have a belted or fitted waist. Details like a pillow collar, figure-flattering ruching or an A-line shape help balance out the volume innate to a quilted coat. Go beyond basic black with shades of brown, grey, or olive. Fight the winter doldrums with lighter shades of ivory, beige, or even a shot of color like red. Guys, try the urban parka look. Found at a range of price points, from styles designed for seriously cold Swedish winters, to those for more moderate climes and budgets. The goal is retro-cool: think Jimmy from Quadrophenia. Ladies, stick with sleeker cut parkas paired with more feminine elements to avoid looking like a carbon copy of Marge from the movie 'Fargo.' Fortunately, you don't have to sacrifice style to stay warm this winter.

The Earl Of Cardigan

2009-12-07T06:00:00.007-06:00

The cardigan sweater is no doubt a hero of the season. Quite unlike it's notorious namesake, James Thomas Brudenell, the 7th Earl of Cardigan who seems to have been sort of a twit, most infamous for leading the tragic Charge of the Light Brigade. Despite all of his alleged character flaws, we must thank him for inventing the "button jacket." (Which begs the question, how did they do up their jackets before?) Beyond the battlefield, the cardigan is universally useful and, with so many renditions to choose from, universally flattering. Functionally, a cardigan adds warmth, of course. But you can also infuse interest and dimension into pretty basic pieces by layering one on. A cardi can reshape or define your silhouette and can be worn in many different ways. Belt it to add a waist, or simply button it at your waist to give it more definition. Keep them fitted. A sleek open cardigan streamlines floaty or voluminous pieces and gives you sleeves on sleeveless dresses, tops and tunics you want to keep wearing despite the chilly weather. Forge ahead with your own collection.

From Russia With Love

2009-12-01T18:00:00.001-06:00

After such a mild and sunny November, it's hard to believe that bleak, cold, dark winter is basically minutes away. Besides Vitamin D supplements, lots-o-caffeine, and a requisite warm climate escape, how are we to cope? Look to the experts. Those clever Russian peasants, with their vast experience in the harsh realities of winter, figured out how to counteract the dreariness of it all with their amazingly colorful textiles and boldly painted folk art. A current exhibit of Matryoshka: The Russian Nesting Doll at The Museum of Russian Art is a great example. Who knew there were so many different styles of Matryoshka? Who knew they were called Matryoshka? We can imitate their coats of many colors. Or at least throw on a colored scarf - er, around the neck, not on the head, unless you're going for the full babushka look. Layering not only to keeps you warm, but brings a range of colors to the same outfit. Another lesson from these vibrantly dressed dolls (and people) is to not worry too much about matching. Just go for a variety of hues, even patterns, that compliment and enrich each other. A stylish way to end the cold war.

Chains of Love

2009-11-24T14:00:00.019-06:00

The holidays are a time to turn up the bling, sparkle and bauble factor. This year, one of the easiest ways to do so is to simply pile on multiple necklaces - preferably long and varied. This look lends itself well to the season and to hiding the fact that you may be wearing the same dress you wore to last year's round of parties. Coco Chanel knew how to wear simple outfits with as much jewelry as possible, combining real with faux, claiming that no one could tell the difference. And really, who cares which is which? It's the overall effect that works the style impact, not how much you paid for it. Even en masse, pearls alone can feel a bit too serious, so try combining chains of various glitter quotients, metals and lengths. Longer is more lengthening, and adds definition to a simple, monochrome tunic or top. You can find this multi-strand look almost anywhere now, at all price points. And not just for holiday parties. Try it on a regular day as an easy, uplifting update.

Tiers of Joy

2009-11-08T20:00:00.002-06:00

Lately, there's been a deluge of every day pieces with the whimsical addition of cascading tiers. Like the now ubiquitous ruffle, on overdrive. Feminine, fun and super flattering when the layers hit or float away at the right places. The effect works well in coats like these from MM Couture, Dorothy Perkins or even Target; or in dresses from Chloé, Bailey 44 or Camilla and Marc, which is actually more of a top. Tiers add dimension to a t-shirt and curves to otherwise straight skirts from Twelve by Twelve or Temperley London. They define a waist in this dress from Maeve and top from Seven For All Mankind. Of course, it goes without saying, our leader in the current mass market frill revival (with just enough irony), J Crew, has many a tiered item this season. From everyday tops to, quite possibly the closest thing to the tiered-wedding-cake-like inspiration for the whole effect, an actual wedding gown. To avoid seeming overly frou-frou, it helps to keep the rest of your outfit fairly basic with structure and clean lines.

Falling For Fall Nail Color

2009-11-07T15:00:00.008-06:00

In the late summer, I indulged myself in what I thought was going to be just one last pedicure before the long months of socks, boots and closed-toe everything. Little did I know that I would be completely won over by one little nail polish from SpaRitual's Fall/Winter 2009 Forbidden collection. It was the color that had me at hello. It's called Mystic - sometimes it looks taupe, others mauve-ish, others almost mocha-brown. A hard to describe color only matched by how perfect it is for this season, when anything too beachy or bright is just a sad reminder of our upcoming hibernation. To top it all off, the entire SpaRitual line of nail lacquers is vegan and has none of those toxic-sounding additives found in most nail polishes (like DBP, formaldehyde and toluene). All the more reason to schedule an off-season pedicure.

Pleasing Pleating

2009-11-05T05:00:00.003-06:00

Women have long known there is nothing like a little box pleat to disguise and reshape when and where you need it. Other than in pants or, even worse, shorts, I adore a good pleated detail. Pleats add feminine touches to basics like tops, shirts, dresses and more dresses. Or even sweaters. Like it's more frilly and at the moment center stage close cousin, the ruffle, pleating is a little more linear and modern. Infusing structure, drape and interest without necessarily adding volume. When paired with something a little more rugged, or more feminine, pleats are not so much severe, or schoolmarm-ish as they are seriously stylish.

And The Pursuit Of Happiness

2009-11-03T09:27:00.009-06:00

The best fashion accessory anyone can sport today is an 'I Voted' sticker. Get out and have your vote counted. If you're feeling particularly civic-minded, want to be reminded of why you should, or just want a lovely, lovely read - check out Maira Kalman's brilliant blog, And the Pursuit Of Happiness. A highly gifted illustrator, author and designer, her work is powerful in it's naive-savant curiosity and optimism. Each and every post is a gem. Enjoy.

La Vie Quotidienne

2009-11-01T08:00:00.030-06:00

It's one thing to get all dressed up for a special or splashy event, daily life is quite another. Don't get me wrong, parties, weddings, formals and moments in the spotlight are often fun and fabulous. But they can also be highly stressful with intense focus on and scrutiny of what to wear. To me, what is far more interesting and satisfying are every day moments of authentic style expression.

What you wear on a regular weekday, say at ten o'clock in the morning, is much more representative of who you are style-wise than any red carpet moment, clouded by the theatre of social pressures with what often amounts to costumes to hide behind for the occasion. Low pressure style moments are not only less fashion-anxiety-inducing, they allow more style serendipity and creativity. In the void of expectations, conventions and self-consciousness (always the death of authenticity), inspiration and true self-expression can thrive. When it comes to style, small moments matter.

The French and Italians (okay, most Europeans) are naturally skilled at this - raising everyday life to a high art form. A reality beautifully captured by The Sartorialist. In any café, boulevard or just going about their work-a-day lives, folks across the pond are effortlessly and uniquely put together. Regardless of where you live, you can choose to raise the style bar for yourself on a daily basis. Not to ridiculous or inappropriate degrees of course. But in harmony with your context, and as a reflection of your personality, mood and a point in time. Here's to everyday style. Every day.

Joan of Arctic Boots

2009-10-12T23:32:00.004-05:00

After waking up to snow on October 10th and then again on the 12th, winter is a lot more top of mind. The leaves have hardly changed color, for goodness sakes. Such a rude awakening and early shock of slush and cold makes these Joan of Arctic boots from Sorel seem all the more like a good investment. The name alone is worth it. That, and the Nanook of the North vibe and the waterproof warmth. Okay, so the snow was beautiful. Just a tad early.

Posturing

2009-10-06T07:00:00.000-05:00

Okay here's one from the 'your mother told you so' files. One completely free and immediate style improvement we can all make is to simply stand and sit up straight. Try it. You'll look instantly taller, smarter and slimmer, I promise you. And your clothes will hang better. As an added bonus, it will give you stronger tummy muscles. Now, as I sit hunched over my desk, 'do as I say, not as I do.'

Cognac Boots

2009-10-03T09:00:00.004-05:00

Cognac gets it's rich color from the barrels in which it is stored, the darker the wood, the darker the color. Call it what you will - caramel, cognac, amber, toffee - in any flavor, it's a delicious color for boots this season. With fly-girl overtones, it's a great alternative to your chocolate brown stand-bys. Try it in booties, riding boots, tall boots, or over-the-knee boots.

Literary Style

2009-10-02T11:00:00.002-05:00

This chilly, rainy weather is perfect for curling up on the cozy couch with a good book. Like these beautiful cloth-bound classics from Penguin shown on design*sponge. In quirky vintage fabrics and vibrant fall hues, they are as inspiring to look at as they are to read. Or, you could just pick up a reasonable facsimile from a vintage bookstore, or, even better, your local library.

Non-Buyer's Remorse

2009-10-01T10:26:00.011-05:00

In Aesop's fable, the ant works hard all summer growing food to store for winter while the grasshopper spends his summer fiddling and singing away. When the cold comes and the grasshopper asks the ant for food, he is only chastised for his laziness. The moral of the story is something along the lines of it's better to work hard and save for the future than to live large and carefree in the moment. Oh to be a smug ant. Or so it would seem. According to an article in the NY Times by John Tierny, in which he coins and explores the concept of saver's remorse, it turns out it may be better to be a grasshopper after all, at least with the perspective of time. How fascinating. Especially for us grasshoppers.

Many people have adopted a new frugality or even shut down all non-essential spending in reaction to the downturn. Or at least we thought we were supposed to. Shocking as it may be, I do get that in the grand scheme of things, sartorial-related spending is most often non-essential. Furthermore, style is not built upon blind accumulation alone (see previous post). Nor does style equate simply spending a lot of money, and definitely not spending more to save more (see previous post). After all, when it comes to style, less is more. But to build a wardrobe, you do have to buy or at least already own or have access to things to wear. And it takes a certain amount of time and forethought to know what should even be in your wardrobe at all. Time and money clearly are both part of the equation. We must also consider the intangible gains, including how you enjoy and experience life, both now and in the long term.

Tierny's article suggests that in the end, it is often the regret of not having done or purchased something that lingers longer than the regret brought on by typical buyer's remorse. So next time you are tempted, instead of dithering, maybe just go for it. Buy the new earrings, the tie, or the boots. Just make sure you love them, they are flattering, fit your personal style and lifestyle and that you can actually afford them. You will waste more time wondering whether you should have, going back a second time, or searching for a substitute if you don't just get them when you are first inclined. Contrary to the conventional (and reactionary) wisdom of the times, sometimes it is worth considering the hidden costs of grimly determined saving vs. the added value of, and day-to-day pleasure from, thoughtful, measured spending.

Warm Blush & Cool Grey

2009-09-30T14:00:00.001-05:00

Lately, I've been loving two art-deco inspired neutrals - palest blush tone and steely blue grey. Especially in a heavier texture, they help balance the cool & warm season that is fall, and on into the decidedly cold season of winter. When worn together, the grey helps the blush to look a little less nursery-ish and more modern; whereas the blush (almost a pinky taupe) softens and feminizes the grey. Romantic and fresh but also practical. Each tone also works well with other neutrals you already have like black, white, brown, charcoal, as well as metallics. Try them in a shoe, top, cardigan, blazer, dress, jacket, coat, boot or bag.

Betwixt & Between

2009-09-23T14:00:00.004-05:00

While the fashion world is all abuzz about the Spring 2010 collections, last week in New York this week in London, it's difficult to get excited about next spring when we're still waiting to embrace fall 2009.

After weeks of strangely hot, humid weather in September, it's now officially autumn. Lower temperatures are getting us closer to donning our beloved boots and sweaters with gusto. But there will be weeks more of dodgy in-between weather: warm enough for bare legs, but just cool enough for breaking out the fall outerwear. Today, for example, was cold and raining in the morning and now is sunny and warm. A key to bridging any seasonal transition is layering. Long cardigans are a dominant silhouette at the moment, worn with a slim leg, and are a hugely useful layering piece, worn open, buttoned or belted. Shrunken cardigans work too, especially over a dress. Jackets add flattering structure, rich textures and upgrade even a casual look.

The power of juxtaposition works in our favor at the betwixt times of year. Combine the remnants of summer dressing - tricked out gladiator sandals, whites (yes, after Labor Day), neutral dresses and tunics - with the preludes of fall - heavier textures, booties, darker neutrals and richer colors. Or try heavier textures in lighter colors. Not only is this a modern, season-less approach to dressing, it is easier on the pocket book because you are just combining things you already have. The same strategy will work in the opposite direction come the end of winter, at which point we'll be more than done with cold weather dressing and entirely ready to get all jazzed about spring fashions.

The Job Interview

2009-09-06T20:00:00.001-05:00

The first US Labor Day holiday took place in 1882 in New York as a tribute to the American worker. This Labor Day, many people are looking for work, either as a result of the downturn, as a new graduate, or as someone re-entering the workforce or making a career shift. In this economy, there is no shortage of candidates for any one position. So make sure you stand out for all the right reasons. What you wear to an interview tells the hiring company a lot about your judgement, your attention to detail and, frankly, how badly you want the job. The minute you walk in the door, your outfit can project confidence, competence and intelligence. It is the packaging of brand 'you.' Of course, it's your qualifications, personality and smarts that will ultimately land you the job. But wearing the wrong outfit could lose you the opportunity. Here are a few tips for putting together a winning interview look:

1. Dress up. The fact that it's a job interview raises the bar for business attire. Wear a suit. Even if it is a casual or 'corporate casual' company. The structured fabric and clean lines of a suit give you authority and a figure-flattering layer of armor for that high-pressure moment. Think crisp, current, tailored business classics. Luckily, this is a look that happens to be big this fall, so there is a lot out there to choose from at, a range of price points. A job interview is not the time to make a huge fashion statement. You can be more creative about what you wear to work once you have the job. First, make sure you get the job offer.

2. Details matter. Your whole outfit needs to project a clear message. Make sure the cut of your suit is modern: remember classic but current. A sure way to make you seem out of touch is to wear an outfit that is. Men, any pleats in yours, buy a new suit. Stick to navy or charcoal. Women's suits become dated quickly. If it's been a while, buy a new one that nips in at the waist with a slimmer silhouette. And you don't need to dress like a man. A little feminine detail goes a long way, like a fitted top, belted jacket, a simple yet interesting necklace, a ruffled collar shirt, shoes with personality or a structured bag. A well cut suit is the blank canvas for the rest of your look. Those details are where you add your personal twist.

3. Be comfortable. Try on the whole outfit the day before your interview. Make sure you can move and sit easily. Low or mid-heel heights are best for women. If you wear a skirt, it should go to your knee or just below it. No plunging necklines. You don't want to be self-conscious or stiff. Once dressed, you should be able to forget about what you are wearing be your best self and focus on the interviewer.

4. Invest in your future. Putting together the right look will take some thought and time, but not necessarily a lot of money. Shop your closet. Find the most appropriate dark suit you own, then update your accessories, tie or fresh white shirt. Most companies will require multiple interviews before they hire you. So you'll need a few different outfits. You can do this by changing up the accessories, shirt, tie, and women can wear the skirt instead of pants. Ladies, if you do buy a new suit, consider getting the pants and the skirt to have more options for outfits.

Some reliable and affordable sources for interview attire: Banana Republic, Ann Taylor, J Crew, The Limited, Nordstrom, Brooks Brothers, Macy's. Also try local boutiques, which tend to have more modern takes on suits. More thoughts from the NY Times The Return of the Interview Suit, and Esquire, How to Dress for a Job Interview on an Unemployed Man's Budget.

Newtonian Fashion

2009-09-01T06:00:00.002-05:00

Back in 1687, physicist Sir Isaac Newton published his three laws of motion. Little did he know that his Third Law, "For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction," could easily be applied to the world of fashion. Consider the pendulum swings from one trend to the next. If one year it's about high-waisted pants, inevitably it will soon be back to low-waisted, from wide ties to skinny ties and back. Any 'it bag', no matter how much you paid for it, won't be 'it' for long. In fact, the whole 'it bag' phenomenon is already dead.

Change is inherent to fashion. With the greatest rate of change at its highest reaches. The calendar is barely into one season when Fashion Week runways are showing two seasons ahead. Fashion insiders declare a trend 'over' before (or because) it works its way into the middle of the market. To some degree, change in fashion is the natural byproduct of the creativity and vision of inspired designers. It is also a reflection of the changing world around us - art imitating life. But the industry depends on fostering a constant need for the new, different and better. Breeding insecurity and striking fear in the hearts of those that dare fall behind or make a mistake is fashion's bread and butter. That's why it is best not to worry so much about trend or what's in or out. Because it will just keep changing - in an equal and opposite manner.

Sure, fashion is an expression of a moment in time and it's fun to feel current. Fashion is supposed to be fun. However, there is a fine, but critical line between being in style and being a fashion victim. Style is internally driven and enduring, whilst fashion is externally driven and fleeting. Stick to what works for you, your shape, your personality, your lifestyle. Participate in trends in moderation and only in ways that best flatter you. That said, regardless of how classic or trendy an item is, everything in your closet will eventually become dated and if it does come back, it will require a new interpretation. So it doesn't work to stand still either.

Which brings us back to Newton. Consider his First Law, the law of inertia - any mass will continue in a straight line or remain motionless unless acted on by an external force. In the end, paying attention to contextual forces - cultural, social, economic, global, environmental and yes, even fashion - saves us from falling into a style rut. Just keep your own style expression at the center and not some abstraction contrived by a glossy magazine. Who knew high school physics and fashion had so much in common?

Ruffles

2009-08-27T23:00:00.002-05:00

Ruffles are a great way to be practical this fall (read: solids, basics, classics, frugality) yet still inject some flare into your wardrobe, adding interest and romance even to the most utilitarian piece. Ruffles work any time of year and are not just for evenings. Nor are they necessarily ethereal (as shown in the above image from Lanvin's fall 2009 ready-t0-wear runway) or overly girly-80s (as shown by Cindy Lauper pretty much all through the 80s). Used strategically, ruffles add not only visual interest and volume where you need it, but draw the eye just where you want it, or away from where you don't - the face being the focus of ruffles at the neckline. Go as subtle or as dramatic as you want. Beyond the classics of skirts or shirts, ruffles also offer a feminine twist to workhorse pieces such as boots, shoes, booties, coats, jackets, cardigans, day dresses, scarves, clutches, bags. The juxtaposition of frilly with serious saves many an outfit from becoming simply mundane. They soften the severe. Go ahead. Ruffle some feathers.

Cycle Chic

2009-08-07T08:00:00.000-05:00

This darling and functional pannier from British company CycleChic would be perfect for any gal on the go, especially on a vintage bicycle. Made from water-resistant woven pine, it certainly makes for stylish and eco-friendly commuting or shopping.

Shoulders Back

2009-08-06T08:00:00.013-05:00

Any mention of a padded shoulder sends shudders up the spine of anyone who lived through the eighties the first time around, stemming from flashbacks to Working Girl style power jackets of cringe-worthy proportions. But if we think instead of the forties and how fabulous those little peaks of shoulders looked then, it can help us to be a wee bit more open to some of the looks for fall 2009. Here is a good example from Aqualino.Rimondi. Strong yet feminine and somewhat exaggerated across their collection for impact on the runway, no doubt. But even a more subtle version of a defined shoulder adds authority and the impression of better posture, not to mention a great line in jackets and coats. Besides, who's going to argue with Joan Crawford?

2009 International Best-Dressed List

2009-08-05T21:40:00.003-05:00

Vanity Fair has published their 2009 International Best-Dressed List. Although you may or may not agree with all of the selections, it's worth browsing through the slide show. Many are style heavy-weights or hall-of-famers, others are lesser known. I loved reading through their style icons, especially from the ones on the list that are style icons for the rest of us.

Maxi Dresses

2009-07-28T07:00:00.015-05:00

Q: Dear Style Mojo, I know I am too old to wear minis, but what about maxi dresses? They seem to have a lot of the cut attributes you recommend like good waist structure, but the length baffles me. What say you? - Across-The-River

A: Dear Across-The-River, Fear not. The now ubiquitous maxi dress is a great option in the heat for several reasons. Cool, feminine, and Bohemian, the maxi dress is not limited to the beach or pool-side. As the name suggests, the maxi length offers coverage and lengthens you too. Make sure the hem goes to at least the top of your ankle, preferably longer. The benefit of the full length is similar to that of full length pants (see previous post) - they make you and your legs look longer and leaner. Maxi dresses should be worn with flat sandals. It's a casual, groovy, easy-breezy look we're going for, not fussy or too dressy. A solid color will emphasize the long silhouette but the drama of the dress can also handle a print. The vertical color blocking in the T-bags dress shown only emphasizes the the long, lean appeal. The empire waist is great for definition but watch the amount of billowing and volume at the hips - with all that fabric it can be a bit too much. To keep it sleek, look for styles with flat seaming or minimal gathering at the waist. Wider straps help balance a larger chest. Make sure you've got the right underpinnings - good bra, no VPL. If it gets cool, just throw on a simple shrunken cardigan or slender open cardigan. There are many styles, fabrics and price points to choose from to help you maximize the remaining lazy hazy days of summer.

Uncolors

2009-07-23T23:00:00.002-05:00

It shouldn't be surprising in this economy that neutrals are increasingly taking center stage. They go with everything, are subtle enough to both last longer in your wardrobe and play into the stealth wealth approach to understated luxury. Texture, layering and silhouette tell the story in place of color. I love the new neutrals and have already gone on about grey, metallics, and I will likely go on at some point about 'griege'. But check out this mauve-y grey shown by Tomas Maier on the Bottega Veneta Fall 2009 ready-to-wear runway. The whole collection was stunning in its simplicity.

Non-Buyer's Remorse

2009-07-14T11:15:00.032-05:00

In Aesop's fable, The Ant & The Grasshopper, the Ant works hard all summer growing food to store for the winter while the Grasshopper spends the summer fiddling and singing away. When the cold comes and the Grasshopper asks the Ant for food, he is only chastised for his laziness. The moral of the story is something along the lines of it's better to work hard and save for the future than to live large and carefree in the moment. Oh to be a smug Ant, especially in the midst of this recession. Or so it would seem. Well, it turns out that it may be better to be a Grasshopper after all. At least with the perspective of time, according to an article by John Tierny in the NY Times. How fascinating. Many of us have adopted a new frugality or shut down all spending as an extreme reaction to the downturn. Or at least we thought we were supposed to. Style is not built upon blind accumulation. Nor does style equate simply spending a lot of money. When it comes to style, less is more, after all. But to build a wardrobe, you do have to buy some things, or at least already own or have access to them. And it takes some degree of time to make decisions about what should be in your wardrobe at all. The article suggests it is often the regret of not having done or bought something that lingers longer than the regret brought on by buyer's remorse. So next time you are tempted, maybe just go for it. Buy the new earrings, or the boots. Just make sure that you love them, they are flattering, fit your personal style and that you can afford them. You will waste more time wondering whether you should have, going back for a second trip, or looking for a substitute if you don't just get them when you are first inclined. Contrary to the conventional (and reactionary) wisdom of the times, sometimes it's worth thinking about the hidden costs of grimly determined saving vs. the added value and pleasure of thoughtful measured spending.

Young MOB, Not Mob

2009-07-02T10:00:00.019-05:00

Q: Dear Style Mojo, My neice is getting married and my sister needs some help choosing an appropriate mother-of-the-bride dress. She is not old enough to go all beige and shapeless, yet I feel she is looking at dresses that are too young for her or too revealing and night-club-ish for the event. I don't want her to embarrass herself, the bride, or me. Please help! Thanks, Aunt-of-the-Bride

A: Dear Aunt-of-the-Bride, A family wedding can make the most sane person crazy. Particularly true for one's own daughter's big day. As you mentioned, many traditional Mother-of-the-Bride (hereafter MOB) dresses can be shapeless, long beige numbers. There will be a lot of focus on the MOB, she's in the spotlight during the ceremony and is essentially a host of the event. And with all those wedding photos there will be a permanent record of what she wore for posterity. Timelessness is a basic tenet of MOB dressing. You don't want to look back and wonder, "What was I thinking? That dress is soooo 2009!" It is a balancing act. Not too costume-y, too prom-like, or at the other extreme too casual or frumpy. Think of what is right for the event, your personality and your shape. Show off your best features - focus on the silhouette of the dress and stick to solids since prints will date quickly. Try lighter fabrics and lighter colors for summer weddings. Compliment the colors of the bridal party, but avoid matching them exactly so you don't look like the oldest bride's maid. Coverage will be an important element - walk this line delicately. Whether you wear a full length number depends on how formal the event is; regardless, your hem should be just at least to the knee or just below it. For your arms and décollétage - it depends. You don't want to end up looking like a star of The Real Housewives of New Jersey. But you also don't want to fade completely into the background. Go for classic but with a modern feel. Keep it simple and feminine. Find a structured dress that defines your waist. Great shoes. A fabulous clutch. Tasteful doesn't mean matronly, nor does it mean old. You can be youthful without looking like 'a mutton dressed as a lamb,' as the English saying goes. A wedding is a celebration with happily-ever-after overtones, not a happy hour. Nordstrom is a great source and has a whole MOB dress section online. Also look outside of the typical wedding machine sections of stores where the dresses will feel more unique and much less contrived.

The Uniform Project

2009-06-21T08:00:00.003-05:00

The Uniform Project is the brain-child of India born and raised designer Sheena Matheiken. She has pledged to wear the same dress every day for one year, using seven identical black cotton dresses, designed by Eliza Starbuck, one for each day of the week. The simple yet versatile black dress can be worn front-to-back or back-to-front. This effort is truly an exercise in accessorizing and how creative one can be with a simple foundation piece. Based on her outfits so far (Day 1 was May 1), the gamine Matheiken is a master at reinventing this blank canvas on a daily basis - check out the daily photos of what she's put together. But not just a self-serving fashion and styling experiment, it's also a fundraising effort for the education of children in India's slums through the Akanksha Foundation. To help the cause, you can donate funds, accessories or even collaborate on a conceptual outfit. Quite a concept all around.

Business Socks

2009-06-18T08:00:00.015-05:00

Q: Dear Style Mojo, Should my socks match my shoes or should they match my pants? For instance, when wearing nice khaki slacks with brown dress shoes, should I wear brown or khaki socks? Thanks, Jake

A: Dear Jake, Good question. Generally, your socks should match your pants. So the short answer is khaki socks with khaki pants. Your socks don't have to be the exact same color, but should 'go' with the general tone, weight and feel of your pants. That includes colors, textures or even a subtle print. Note, 'subtle'. No logos, holiday themes or characters, please - there are much better outlets for your sense of humor. In dress pants or nicer pants, always wear dress shoes and finer knit dress socks. In more casual pants or jeans, you can wear a heavier knit sock. But it must be said, no white sports socks unless you are wearing athletic shoes and actually participating in a sport. Color wise, to reinforce the principle of socks-match-the-pants, it helps to consider what is happening visually. By continuing the color scheme of your pant, you are visually connecting your ankle to your leg, thereby lengthening your leg, also making you longer and leaner. On the other hand, if your sock is more in line with your shoe color, you are just essentially extending your foot. The former is better. Although you don't want the flow of your look to get choppy, a complimentary pop of color can add some interest. But do this with a conscious eye towards a statement and not accidentally because you were fumbling through your sock drawer in the morning. Your socks should not be the focal point of your outfit. Rather, their role is simply to not take away from nor interrupt the rest of your ensemble. Contrary to the Thom Browne phenomenon of cropped suits, we shouldn't see your socks unless you are sitting down. However, if you're a Flight of the Conchords fan, you can give your socks their 15 minutes (or 2) of fame, just like Jemaine. "When I'm down to my socks, it's time for business; That's why they call them business socks." But let's keep that behind the bedroom door.

Jenna Lyons

2009-06-13T08:00:00.008-05:00

Jenna Lyons is the visionary, inspiration and creative force behind J Crew's revamped image - taking it from ho-hum conservative to ironic modern classics, leveraging its preppy heritage only with a much hipper take. Okay, I'm trying not to mention Michelle Obama in every other post, or J Crew for that matter, but how can I avoid the fact that the First Lady is also a fan? J Crew is a key part of her high-low ladylike mix and casual elegance. Guys, you should pay attention too. In the latest issue of Details magazine, Jenna lists her top ten tips for men's styling. Good advice indeed. Especially the part about no pleats, not ever. Love her.

Summer Scarves

2009-06-12T06:00:00.006-05:00

Q: Dear Style Mojo, What am I supposed to do with these summer scarves I'm seeing in stores this year? How do you recommend I wear them? - Unsure About Scarves

A: Dear Unsure About Scarves, This season, the summer-weight scarf has become a ubiquitous and highly useful accessory. They always fit, for one thing, so they are easy to buy and make great gifts. Like their cool weather cousin, the pashmina, scarves serve a variety of purposes, even in the heat: a splash of color or print; a bit of sun protection; or some warmth on a cooler day or evening. There is a certain Euro-Bohemian edge to this look. Wear them with anything, really. Over everyday clothing or outerwear. Anywhere from the beach to an air-conditioned office. Volume is the way to go, not wimpy. Scarves should be on the longer and wider side. For the summer, keep the colors lighter and brighter. You can wear them looped around your neck with the ends dangling, which has a lengthening effect; loosely knotted at the neck which draws attention to the face; or simply draped around your neck or shoulders. Check out this Christelle Scarf from Anthropologie. But don't stop there, get a few. Their whole collection offers a great range of price points and styles. A summer scarf is an easy, very cost-effective way to add some interest, color and flare to even your most basic outfits.

Sartorial & Pastoral Bliss

2009-06-10T08:00:00.018-05:00

Having recently enjoyed a stay at a friends' beautiful country house, a long driving holiday to the mountains and looking forward to several weekends of camping, the question arises: How to dress stylishly in the great outdoors? Do we bother? Can a Town Mouse also be a Country Mouse? During our country house stay, natural beauty abounded. Calming views, bicycle rides along a river valley, eagles soaring above the cliffs, hiking the thick forested trails - not to mention good company and gourmet fare. So lulled was I into a general haze of happiness beside a roaring campfire in the chilly night air, that when my gracious host offered me a Carhartt jacket (yes, a men's Carhartt jacket) to keep me warm, I gladly accepted it. Here was a classic case of two things driving form: function and context. A key element of good style is to be dressed appropriately for your environment and purpose. That is, the vibe in any setting, activity, or crowd will draw out a different angle in your dress and expression of your style. Not every life moment, and, therefore, not every style moment, is a red-carpet event (thank goodness). Sometimes you just have to protect yourself from the elements. But you also want to be yourself. Please know that in the countryside, I was not dressed head to toe in REI gear. There are ways to rev up the style factor even on functional pieces. But under the circumstances, a jacket from a brand with strong roots in the rugged outdoor workwear world (unfortunately co-opted by the likes of Sarah Palin and her unwieldy crowds of male fans) made a lot of sense. By the way, due to its unapologetic authenticity, the Carhartt brand, prior to the shout-out by Palin, had built up street cred amongst the male Urban Outfitters crowd. Whether or not that is still the case is arguable. Nevertheless, after donning and thanking my host for the coat, I looked up at the brilliant night sky and also thanked my lucky stars.

GS Lillian Jewelry

2009-06-09T10:00:00.012-05:00

Floral explosions of color. That defines the beautiful jewelry by Shelly Saber of GS Lillian. Check out the dramatic yet fun pieces from her line of necklaces, cuffs, bracelets, earrings, or brooches. Big, bold and quirky, these are not for the faint-of-heart. It's hard to choose just one, but you can try - online or at local boutiques nationwide. If only my garden looked this good.

Who Wears Short Shorts?

2009-06-08T11:00:00.012-05:00

Q: Dear Style Mojo, How does one wear shorts? Does one? What to do? I've got hips. I'm not sure what to do in the summer. Help! - Short Shy

A: Dear Short Shy, Ahh shorts. A scourge of summer dressing, second only to capri pants (see previous post). Ladies, you don't want to look like your high school girls' gym teacher minus the whistle and clip board, but you also want to keep cool. What's a gal to do in the heat? At their core, shorts are casual and best left for gardening, athletics or the beach. Even though many designers sent shorts down the runways this season, for most people, shorts are neither for work nor for dressing up. That's you too guys. Unless you actually live in Bermuda, leave shorts to the weekends. For women, consider alternatives to shorts, which work in more situations and are generally more flattering. Instead, try a skirt, a dress or long cooler fabric pants. A skirt to just below the knee in an A-line, bias or tulip cut is good for balancing out your hips. Dresses can be worn casually too, one of the finer points of summer. However, if you must wear shorts aim for the hem to hit the smallest parts of your leg, usually just below or slightly above the knee. Keep the cuts narrow and try them with longer tunic tops. With fuller shorts keep your top fitted, as in the image above. Please note this look is for the fashion-forward. Do not, I repeat do not dig up any old pleated chino shorts - especially you guys, no pleats. If you are petite or simply have great legs, 'hot pants' (really short shorts) do work wonders to lengthen and show off your legs. Otherwise, for most of us, keep your shorts long and lean. Or, preferably, avoid them altogether. For more thoughts on the rise and fall of shorts, check out this piece from the WSJ.

Slow Dressing

2009-06-03T21:00:00.013-05:00

The Slow Food Movement, started in 1989 in Italy, grew out of the backlash against fast food and all its societal and environmental ills. In the face of the economic downturn, what about the idea of 'slow dressing' as a correction after a couple decades of indulgent accumulation and unnecessary fashion gluttony? Unlike fast food, this fast approach to luxury or disposable clothing didn't clog our arteries, but our closets and psyches. A more methodical approach to building a wardrobe is a more soulful way to go. Better for all involved - you, the earth, your self expression. Also, likely more creative and authentic. An interesting article in this month's Atlantic, Fashion in Dark Times, among many other things, talks about the notion of buying only a few clothing items a year, two to three pieces, maybe even just one, and spending potentially much more per piece. Doing more by having less should be a mantra for us all. However, for this approach to work stylistically as well as functionally, it sure helps to already have your own style figured out in order to know what those few key pieces could or should be. And it helps to already have built a solid foundation which those few pieces would tweek or augment. The simplicity of 'less' is enticing, at least in theory. But the seduction of 'more,' with all the optimism and hope-in-a-bottle possibilities it represents, will also have its strong pull. In the end, as trite as it may sound, for your wardrobe, quality will always trump quantity.

Coral Reef Motifs

2009-06-01T11:00:00.003-05:00

Coral motifs have been showing up on summer beach wear and home decor. The warm pop of the orangy red color is a great addition for your wardrobe, accessories or home this season. It's almost universally flattering. Not to mention the calming and cooling power of the reef print: Evoking the ocean, it instantly transports us seaside. How lovely is this coral print wallpaper from Thibault? (By the way, it's worth checking out all of their unique wallpapers and fabrics - gorgeous, really merits it's own post.) There's nothing quite like nature itself to best tell the style story each season. And there is something interesting about the appeal of this particular image - one at serious risk. It's clear that simply wearing or enjoying images of coral reef life isn't enough. Apparently, last year was the International Year of the Reef - 'a worldwide campaign to raise awareness about the value and importance of coral reefs and threats to their sustainability and to motivate people to take action to protect them.' How did I miss this? I suppose there were a few other things going on in 2008. Read more from the WWF.

Belt It Out

2009-05-28T07:30:00.005-05:00

Q: Dear Style Mojo, I love the over-the-clothes-belt look, but this morning I wasn't sure how to pull it off. Where should I position my belt if I'm wearing it over a dress? If I have it over a cardigan, do I button the whole cardigan up? Does the belt need to match the shoes and bag? What about other accessories - is a necklace too much? - Bewildered by Belts

A: Dear Bewildered, I'm thrilled that you're using belts to define your waist and wearing them on the outside of tops, dresses and sweaters. When not on your pant belt loops, a belt should be worn at your natural waist. That is, your narrowest part - usually around the base of your rib cage. (See also A Cinch). Generally, avoid wearing the belt low slung at your hips, which only lengthens your torso and shortens your legs - exactly the opposite of what you want. Make sure the top or tunic is long enough to end at your hip or lower when belted. The thickness of your belt can vary, but think about proportion. A wider belt makes more of a statement and will dominate your look. For comfort, wider belts with elasticized bands mold to the curve of your body much more than stiffer leather. Keep your other accessories less dramatic. Stick with earrings instead of a necklace to keep from chopping up the visual flow with a second ring around your torso. The belt can compliment or 'go' with your shoes and bag without having to be exactly the same material or color. A less 'matchy-matchy' approach will keep your look more interesting and less severe. A belt over a cardigan, especially over a dress, is a classic look reinterpreted extensively by J Crew. You can close just the middle few buttons under the belt to create an hourglass shape with the v-opening at the top and bottom of the cardigan. However, when wearing a belt over a jacket, keep all the buttons closed and make sure the jacket is fitted to avoid bulges or billowing. Your belts don't have to be leather, a wide grosgrain ribbon with finished ends tied in a bow can add a bit of color or stripe.

Big Black Book

2009-05-27T06:00:00.000-05:00

If you haven't picked one up already, the Spring 2009 edition of Esquire's Big Black Book is a great straight talk source for men's style inspiration. Lots of good seasonal advice to help the men we love to live up to their style potential.

Business Casual (Not Casualty)

2009-05-26T09:00:00.015-05:00

Q: Dear Style Mojo, My god-daughter, Ellie, just landed her first job out of college at an engineering company in Arizona. The office there is business casual. What would be your advice to her for building a professional wardrobe? - Thanks, Fairy Godmother

A: Dear Fairy Godmother, Congratulations to Ellie on her new job. What an exciting reason to buy a new work wardrobe. However, Ellie, you must proceed with caution. There is a lot at stake - first impressions, establishing credibility, being perceived as too young or inexperienced. Business casual dress codes are a mine field of possible style (and ergo professional) missteps. Typically, these office dress codes only define the minimal requirements of attire so as not get yourself fired and are hardly guides to style. In the end you can really only count on 'business casual' meaning that two-piece suits are not required on a daily basis. Everything else is up for grabs. On the one hand, this offers great freedom of expression. But it can also make it harder to dress appropriately for office. The old adage holds, 'Dress for the job you want, not the job you have.' For someone young, there is temptation to either dress like a cartoon character of a 'working person' in stiff outfits that have nothing to do with your personality, or to go the other extreme and dress down too much. That company didn't hire you for your qualifications alone, but also for your unique set of soft skills. Express yourself, but focus on the image you want to project at work. You can be more experimental outside of the office. Although the engineering field is still fairly male-dominated, you don't have to dress like a man: leverage your feminine side. It will be hot in Arizona, but the offices will be air conditioned and business casual is not an excuse to expose too much skin. Coverage with cool fabrics is the way to go. Since you don't need suits, invest in separates. Try not to get everything from one source all at once. Instead, over time build up a collection of light fabric belted jackets, wider leg dress pants, cotton structured tops and knee length skirts. Dresses with cardigans are a great solution - see previous post, Professional Dress, or basically any image of Michelle Obama. It's always better to be more put together than to be under-dressed. But above all, 'To thine own self be true.' Most women describe their style as 'classic with a twist.' Your work wardrobe classics will provide a solid foundation of basics. The 'twist' will be what makes any look your own.

Tracy Feith

2009-05-21T11:00:00.001-05:00

Tracy Feith is on a roll. This former surfer dude turned designer has just launched a line for Target and he is the designer behind the gorgeous Asian print dress Michelle Obama wore the day after the inauguration. Unlike that sophisticated lady-like dress, this fast fashion collection is quirky, youthful and '60s beach-culture inspired. The black cotton bloomer shorts with Little Bo Peep style eyelet trim could be a good, albeit Lolita-esque, solution to tunic dresses that are a wee bit short without something underneath, like the structured black and white mod-like tunic dress with the exposed front zipper. The Mexican inspired embroidere d "dress" actually is more of a top. However, the colorful Hawaiian print tunic dress and A-line mini skirt are good options for casual, with great structure. (As an aside, shocking the fashion world, the First Lady actually wore that prayer service dress - get this - more than once. In public. On May 5th she also wore it to speak at the UN in New York. How wonderfully realistic of her.)

Not Just For Picnics

2009-05-19T21:00:00.006-05:00

Gingham can conjure up images of Mary Ann, Dorothy or the Dukes of Hazard. Depending on your point of view, these may be either positive or negative associations. Regardless, gingham is a fresh addition for spring and summer. When used in moderation and with a wink to retro-kitch it can help you stay cool in the heat. Guys, a gingham dress shirt or two is a nice change from the standard blue solids. Or maybe try it in a tie. A casual shirt works too, as long as it is fitted. Ladies, a touch of gingham here and there inserts a crisp, playful element to your outfits. And don't just stick with basic blue & white or red & white. Today, the first day of summer-like temperatures, I saw a very stylish friend sporting a purple & white gingham top. She looked darling and hip at the same time. Try gingham in a skirt, dress, top, cami, bathing suit, or even shoes. Think about the size of the print. At about one centimeter size, the checks feel less serious than the super small ones, but too much larger starts to look like a table cloth. Also watch the slippery slope to costume - at either the prim or tart ends of the spectrum. Be sure to balance out this classic fabric with something a bit more edgy or rugged. At any rate, gingham is a good Memorial Day picnic stand by - either to sit on or to wear.

La Cage Aux Folles

2009-05-16T06:00:00.022-05:00

The foot has been the focal point of much sartorial drama lately. Leaf through any fashion magazine and you'll see endless variations on the crazy sandals, shoe-boots, sky high heels and many a gladiator style flat. When worn a certain way, in the right context, they are a good anchor for your leg and your look. With more support in the front of the foot, they can be surprisingly comfortable. Another upside, with just one pair of shoes, any old dress or outfit gets an instant update. Ordinary pieces become hip. But some of these shoes are so outlandish and impractical, they're barely wear-able and are only for photo shoots or fancy sitting rather than any distance walking. These bird-cage style multi-strap platform sandals are one part bondage, one part eighties glam and one part Pretty Woman. Back in 2008, stylist Patricia Field had Carrie Bradshaw sashaying through Manhattan in a pair of black sandal booties in the Sex And The City Movie, the whole film an orgy of fashion excess, pre-financial apocolypse. But why has this trend continued in the mainstream now? Is it some sort of urban warrior battle cry? It seems antithetical to reason to be so flamboyant with foot wear at a time like this. One would think Amish-style modesty should be more attractive at the moment, with our collective swing towards frugality and all. Maybe it's about girl power and sticking it to the powers that be. Or, perhaps, it's about sticking it to the powers that were.

La Dolce Vita

2009-05-14T06:00:00.005-05:00

A sure sign that spring has arrived is the return of the scooter. The other day, I spied an orange one with camel leather. Fantastic color combination - a warm tone-on-tone effect with zing. It stopped me in my tracks. As I squinted to figure out what brand of scooter it was, I realized I'd never heard of it. Turns out it was from The Genuine Scooter Company, out of Chicago. Not Italy, as I'd initially assumed and, let's be clear, had hoped. The Italian Riviera seemed a nicer fantasy than a midwestern, home grown number. Well, digging around, I think I love "America's (Smallest) Scooter Company," started by a guy who simply fell in love with scooters on a trip to Greece. After restoring and selling Vespa and Lambretta scooters from his garage, Philip McCaleb decided that 'the only thing better than an old vintage scooter is a new vintage scooter' and started building his own with 'all the retro charm and fun as the old classics, minus the hard to find parts and expensive repair bills'. Sounds good to me.

Wedding Guest Conundrum

2009-05-13T06:00:00.017-05:00

Q: Dear Style Mojo, I am the happy owner of a black Dolce & Gabbana corset dress. It's beautiful and very sexy. My conundrum is that I would like to wear it to my little brother's wedding this summer (night time, black tie) and I worry that it might be too sexy. Do you have any tips on how I might accessorize so I look more proud older sis and less sexy Italian widow? Or maybe I just need a new dress? - Thanks, Peevish Mama

A: Dear Peevish Mama, Sounds like it's worth wearing that fabulous dress as often as possible. A sexy, and also likely sophisticated, black dress is perfectly acceptable as a guest at a fancy evening wedding. But I understand your concern. Let's avoid the Cher in Moonstruck harshness or any whiff of mourning. The issue here is balance; juxtaposing sexy and edgy with soft and feminine. You can soften the overall effect and add some coverage with a demure wrap, a lighter toned or shimmery clutch and, to modernize the look, some platform sandals, which are very of the moment and will help keep the look seasonally appropriate for summer evening. The idea here is to balance the form fitted dress with some flow and to brighten the black. Note that black doesn't go with every color - together the black and some colors become harsh and cheapened. Instead, play into the vast array of neutrals available right now: nude, pale colors like blush, metallics, beiges, or grey. The key to making these non-colors interesting is the detail, such as patent, and the exaggerated elements, like tricked-out sandal straps. The jewelry you choose can also lighten things up. A necklace with more innocent connotations, such as pearls or with some element of whimsy would balance out the dress's heat. Any sparkle always brightens. In reality, only during the ceremony would any overly-sexy quotient even register. Once the reception gets going, the wedding becomes a fancy evening party in celebration of your brother and his new bride. You can then kick off your platform shoes, throw off your wrap and boogie like it's 2009. Or, as you implied, if it just isn't hanging together, you can always use this event as a great excuse to get a whole new outfit.

Men's Jeans Intervention

2009-05-12T06:00:00.014-05:00

Gentlemen, one of the best ways to show the world you are hopelessly out of style is to have lame jeans. Or to wear good jeans the wrong way. Jeans are such a workhorse in your wardrobe from weekends to casual outings, not to mention the dreaded Casual Friday, it is essential that they are working with and not against you. Here is a list of guidelines to help you overcome some common men's denim fashion faux pas:

1. Always wear a belt. And not a dress belt. A thicker leather casual belt.

2. Get a dark wash. Not light. Darker denim works in more circumstances, they are more slimming and simply more current.

3. Uniform wash. No distressing. No holes. Fraying at the hem is okay, but only in moderation and any frayed edge makes them more casual.

4. Those faded high-waisted Levis that were really cool in high school? No more. Purge these from your closet and from your psyche. They should never be worn again.

5. If you've gained a few pounds, buy some new jeans. Those too tight ones are not making you look slimmer, but quite the opposite. Wear your jeans slightly loose but not overly baggy. You are neither a toddler, nor a gangsta.

6. The length should allow some break in the front. Not too short - we should not see your socks unless you are sitting down. Your jeans hem should touch the ground in shoes you wear with them most often.

7. If you wear jeans with hard-soled dress shoes, make sure the shoes are a bit on the heavier side. Casual leather lace ups or slip-ons with thicker soles work, as do Chuck Taylors or, in the cooler months, boots.

8. No over-stitched or embellished pockets. These look like you're trying too hard and will date themselves quickly. The more plain the better.

9. Don't be afraid of boot-cut styles, which will make you look taller and slimmer. Straight leg and relaxed fits are okay, so long as they are not too loose or too tight. Unless you are an uber hipster, and you would know if you were, avoid any jeans with tight ankles.

10. Finally, designer brands like 7 For All Mankind can work, but don't be blinded by the label. You don't have to spend hundreds of dollars on denim. There are plenty of options at moderate prices from readily accessibly brands like Banana Republic, Converse One Star, Gap, Lucky Brand Jeans, to name just a few.

With relatively little cost, a pair of updated jeans can instantly and dramatically take you from dated and dorky to current and much cooler.

Desperately Seeking Outerwear

2009-05-11T17:00:00.003-05:00

Q: Dear Style Mojo: I struggle this time of year with outerwear. It's too warm for my winter coat, but too cool for just my cardigan. I haven't had luck with many lightweight coats or manly trenchcoats. Do you have any advice? - Thanks, Desperately Unjacketed

A: Dear Desperately: For many, like you, who fell into winter's spell, stopped believing spring would ever arrive, and put off buying any sort of spring coat, it may be harder to find one at this time of year. It takes some advanced planning to have seasonal attire on hand when the weather finally does turn on a dime. At this late stage, most stores have cleared out their spring coats, so online is the way to go. Here are some sources for spring toppers that offer a range of brands and may prove fruitful: Bluefly.com; Overstock.com; Nordstrom.com; and there's always Boden, but be prepared to see repeats of their distinct prints - I would go for the solids. To make the potentially manly trench more feminine, make sure it ties at or defines the waist, the shoulders are snug, the sleeves aren't too long and the top is fitted. Details like ruffles, a gathered skirt, or a bold color help too. And don't be afraid of a white coat as a fresh alternative to other neutrals. Once you browse, try getting a few different spring coat styles. There is always a range of outfits, moods and color pallettes to accomodate. Besides, as a wise person once said, "In New York City, your coat is your car." When you're out and about, the same is true anywhere. Stylish & flattering outerwear can instantly upgrade even the most basic jeans and a t-shirt. That alone is worth the investment.

Muted Metallica

2009-05-05T06:00:00.008-05:00

Think of them as a neutral with personality. Like Switzerland meets Italy. That is the magic of the now widely available muted metallic finishes. This sheen is not just for accessories, although that is an easy place to start. Try it in a shoe, sandal, bag, clutch, coat, top, skirt, dress, belt - you name it. These glimmering pieces offer a way to have fewer items in a lighter tone for the season that work across a range of color palettes, offering big cost-per-wear benefits. Note that the desired effect is more subtle than any renditions of a super shiny gold or silver lamé of yesteryear (although those have their role as well). These more modern metallics go with everything and jazz up otherwise beige or greige ensembles, look great with whites or off whites. Any color, really. For daytime too, not just at night. At the very least get yourself a pair or summer shoes or sandals in a metallic something - silver, gold, blush, grey, bronze, you choose - and wear them daily. PS: In the gladiator sandal a metallic has the added bonus of blending in with your skin tones better than a matte leather so they don't cut off the line of your leg as much.

Closet Convergence

2009-05-04T09:00:00.001-05:00

Anyone else struggling with about three different seasons' clothing crammed into your closet all at once? Spring is a hard time of year to know how to dress from day to day. Somehow fall is easier with the inevitable march towards boots, sweaters, coats and layers. Besides, we all love an extended summer with a few bonus hot days in September. But an extended winter is harder to manage, both psychologically and wardrobe-wise. Never mind the huge temperature swings and rain. I for one am looking forward to consistently warmer temperatures and to when I can store all my in-between clothes. But just wait, all too soon I'll be complaining that it's too hot outside and that the summer sun requires just a bit too much sunscreen vigilance for my liking. My ideal temperature range is quite narrow. Unfortunately, at this time of year, my closet space is too.

Let Them Eat Sandals?

2009-05-03T09:00:00.028-05:00

I just don't get it. The other day I saw a headline in my beloved NY Times about fashion for women over 30 - which of course grabbed my attention. How to look stylish "without looking like you're still sleeping under a Bon Jovi poster." Perfect. Yes, women at this stage are vastly under-served by the fashion marketplace. Stuck between the trend hungry teens in their experimental stages and, at the other end, their own mothers whom they simply do not want to dress like, not yet anyway. Say 'matronly' and most women will run in the opposite direction. No, these women have arrived, they know who they are, they are ready to be fashion victors, not victims. How utterly ridiculous and disappointing then to have fashion critic Cathy Horyn declare a $1,200 dress or $700 sandals as 'good value' or a $3,000 jacket as 'well worth the investment.' Are they crazy? This is not new - the leading edge of fashion has long held up couture design as aspirational. High art is one thing. Daily life is quite another. Instead of being inspirational, this Marie-Antoinette style delusion can be off-putting. Only a very small segment, and frankly, not many style-savvy women, would think it wise to fork over such a large sum on one thing that will likely last only a few seasons at best. At the other extreme, I've already preached against buying a bargain just to save money. But it is maddening, even insulting, to see such emphasis on super premium recommendations - especially now, with retirement funds evaporating and jobless rates haunting. How about a focus on reasonably priced, age appropriate, well chosen pieces? Or some more affordable unique pieces from local boutiques mixed in with mainstream brands? Or mining your own creative style point of view, which alone is priceless. Women of all ages, it is entirely possible to create a signature style without wiping out, or exceeding, your entire budget in one piece. Honestly.

Kentucky Derby

2009-05-02T22:00:00.004-05:00

Ahhh. The 135th Annual Kentucky Derby. The tradition. The 50:1 long-shot. The majestic horses. The Mint Julips. But most of all, the hats, the wonderful hats. What a great excuse for elaborate millinery, pomp and finery.

Reduce, Reuse, Recycle...Repair

2009-04-23T09:39:00.042-05:00

Spring is a great time of year to extend the life of your wardrobe favorites that need some maintenance and repair. If you're like me and not at all handy with needle and thread, you can have your local tailor reenforce any buttons on your spring coats, and for that matter, your winter coats too before you put them away for the season. Before you store your boots, have a shoe repair expert fix any worn out heels and refurbish the leather. They'll be gleaming like new when you get them out again in the fall. Even worn out leather watch bands can be replaced at a watch repair shop or jeweler for little cost. It's also a chance to change up the color for a whole new piece - like a cream colored leather watch band instead of brown. Sometimes things are worn out beyond repair or outdated beyond redemption. Those must go - ideally to be repurposed or reused in some capacity. However, repairing the wear and tear on your flattering, oft used pieces is well worth the relatively small investment. Good for your wardrobe and good for the earth.

Half Calf

2009-04-19T08:00:00.026-05:00

I have a bee in my bonnet about a ubiquitous warm weather style pitfall. That is, any item of clothing that stops half way down (or up) your calf. Sometimes it's a cropped or capri pant, other times it is a skirt or dress. Regardless, this is the worst possible length since it stops at the widest part of your lower leg. It also makes your legs looked just as cropped as the pants. Who wants wider, shorter legs? Apparently, many people. If you don't believe me, take a look around or examine photos of yourself in this horrid mid-calf length - squatsville. Avoid any items in this length. Instead, aim for hems that finish at the narrowest part of your legs - usually at the ankle, just below the knee or, if you've got the gams for it, above the knee. Ideally, year round, wear pants 1/4 inch to the ground in the heels you wear most often with them. With lighter fabrics like linen and cotton, you will be a tall cool glass of water. Let's leave crops to the fields and squats to calisthenics.

Jolly Good

2009-04-16T07:25:00.005-05:00

The Boots Original Beauty collection of lotions and potions at Target make great gifts and are much more affordable than a jaunt across the pond to what is perhaps the world's best drugstore. The modern-Victorian packaging is sweetly anachronistic, especially under the fluorescent light glare at the end cap. With beautifully printed boxes, thick glass (not plastic) containers, and charmingly antiquated names like vanishing cream and cold cream, you'll feel like you're raiding your very cool great-grandmother's dresser top.

Pajamafication Nation

2009-04-13T12:00:00.008-05:00

The emergence of the yoga pant has mercifully displaced the sweat pant to a certain degree. However, as your style advocate, I must point out that yoga pants, like their predecessor and, frankly, all work out wear, are only for working out. Unless your job involves exercise or you're headed straight to the gym, you should not be wearing yoga pants out of the house. Now, I will admit to having lapsed on occasion and to being painfully busted, every time. My shame in those moments only further illustrates the problem with wearing what amounts to lounge wear in public - it undermines how you look to others and, whether you know it or not, how you feel about yourself. It says, "I couldn't be bothered to actually get dressed." Comfortable and easy, yes. But it takes the same energy to put on proper clothing which, unless you are donning an 18th century-style corset, is likely comfortable enough. It is possible to be casual and stylish without wearing gym clothes. Goodness knows we could all use more time exercising. And when you do work up a sweat, by all means, revel in some flattering lycra attire, like these. But when you're done working out, please get dressed.

Slimmer Down Now

2009-04-10T16:28:00.040-05:00

Maybe you wear suits to work most days. Or perhaps just on special occasions. In any case, it might be time to consider a new, slimmer cut. Especially in the jacket torso and sleeve. If your suit pants still have pleats, you have either given up completely or it is time to move on from the time capsule. You don't need to be super thin: we're not talking about a suit of Sproket-like proportions. Even a slightly narrower cut will instantly make your look more modern, sleeker and, as a bonus, you will look slimmer too. And taller. Shown is a classic navy blue suit made current by the right cut, from GQ Magazine's online guide to Building The Perfect Business Wardrobe. They have great tips on fit, getting the right size, and the limits of what a tailor can and cannot alter. The Sartorialist is a good source for real life examples of guys in slimmer cut suits, pants and jackets in stylish cities around the globe.

Beware The Bargain

2009-04-08T13:00:00.007-05:00

These days deep discounts are a dime a dozen. At first glance, the siren song of a steal is hard to resist. It feels smart. You can't wait to tell your friends how little you paid, especially for a designer label. Believe me, I get it. In the past decade, the democratization of design and the proliferation of disposable fashion chains have made it easy to have more and spend less. But merely spending or having, does not equate good style. In fact, it often gets in the way of it. Worse, it can lead to an Absolutely Fabulous-esque fashion victim look. Not good. In the grander scheme of wardrobe building, aim for quality over quantity. Quality here doesn't just mean how well it is made or how much it cost. Does it suit your unique style point of view? Does it add an essential tweak? Would you buy it at full price? This thinking will help your overall wardrobe last longer, look better and feel more cohesive. Sure, seems obvious. It's just harder to execute while intoxicated by a clearance sale coup. A wardrobe built on a series of random purchases - at any price, in any economy - is akin to the poor little pig's house of straw. Easily blown away by the next big thing. And that is no deal at all.

Bill Cunningham

2009-04-04T06:00:00.013-05:00

Ultimately, it is the real life applications of style that interest me - much more than the theatre of the runway or the fantasy of the glossy fashion magazine world. Don't get me wrong: I do love them as inspiration. But it is how style works for real people in their day to day lives that is my passion. Not surprisingly, I am a huge fan of Bill Cunningham's On The Street. Every week, I look forward to his themed photo essay, from the streets of Manhattan or wherever else he's been. For nearly fifty years, roaming around on his trademark bicycle, he has captured people on their way to work or going about their day. He documents and interprets but doesn't pass judgement and seems blind to labels or celebrity. In the online audio slide show version, I adore his narration. His enthusiasm for and delight in his subjects are infectious. What a kick to hear him declare something "maaah-velous" or his signature flourish "it's all they-ah." Beyond his work, the gentleman himself is fascinating. Check out a great article on this gifted quirky octogenarian in The New Yorker.

First Ladies of Style

2009-04-03T12:00:00.003-05:00

Carla Bruni-Sarkozy has been featured recently in Vanity Fair, Vogue, and the New York Times. Who wouldn't be intrigued with this former supermodel, singer/songwriter, Italian heiress, and bohemian bonne vivante? Not to mention her unconventional lead up to and entrance as First Lady of France. She doesn't conform or apologize for how she has lived her life. She has an easy classic style that plays a bit against type (the free spirit) and at the same time shows respect for her new role. Reminds me of another First Lady who is rocking the style world. In a major political style moment, here are the two statuesque beauties captured today for the first time side by side in Strasbourg, France. I can't help but point out three elements of their signature looks: structured dresses and coats; perfect length hems (to just below the knee) and defined waists. Tres jolie, non?

A Cinch

2009-04-03T06:00:00.007-05:00

Fashions come and go on all fronts. This includes what particular clothing silhouette is in vogue or which part of the body is highlighted by fashions of the day. Regardless of what is in or out, ladies, the number one thing you can do to create a great shape of your own is to define your waist. If you have one, flaunt it; if you don't, create one with your outfit. Wrap dresses and wrap tops are universally flattering for this reason. Look for dresses like this darling one from Sunday Brunch Dress or jackets, sweaters, tops, and coats that cinch in, are belted or tailored at your natural waist. That is, the smallest part of your middle, usually just below your rib cage, much higher than a jeans waistband. As an added bonus, skirts that flow away from the body also create the illusion of a smaller waist. Even better, your legs will look longer - starting at this higher, defined waist. Essentially, the silhouette of your clothing can redefine your own silhouette. Much simpler than many 'body restructuring' alternatives out there.

Weathering the Weather

2009-03-31T11:19:00.016-05:00

March is definitely going out like a lion in my locale today. Snowing and raining at the same time and all around quite dreary. Going backwards and not forwards weather wise can be frustrating when all we want to do is get on with some lighter, brighter attire. Regardless of where you are, you have to dress for the context. My mother told me many a time as a child "Dress for the temperature, not the calendar." Like with so many things, she was right. Keep your layers around for quite a while longer. Just dial up the color factor, which will help you feel like we're headed in the right direction. That applies to wool coats or spring toppers, sweaters, scarves, pashminas, etc. You may find yourself in leather or Wellington boots for some time too. I swear my shoes have not seen the light of day since November. Here's to turning the calendar one month closer to some real spring weather.

Hat Trick

2009-03-26T05:40:00.000-05:00

The hat is no longer a standard part of most people's day to day wardrobes and, short of the Kentucky Derby, it is rarely a style requirement. However, a good sun hat is a must for any extended time spent out in the sun. And the utility of sun protection doesn't mean giving up on style quotient. In a casual situation like the beach, pool, or other outdoor leisure pursuit, try a classic straw hat, a colorful floppy hat or even a reversible cotton printed hat, to name just a few options. This linen 1940s style hat from Etsy could work in the city, depending on the outfit, how sun shy you are and how vintagey you're willing to go. Regardless of which style you choose, find one with a brim to keep the sun off your face, neck and ears - that includes you, guys. Make sure it fits comfortably and go for natural fabrics like cotton or raffia vs. synthetics, which can get too hot in the summer sun.

Professional Dress

2009-03-25T06:09:00.006-05:00

Check out the latest Elle Magazine for a great article Capital Cool. Creative Director Joe Zee helps several real life White House women staffers dress for their new high-powered roles. Shown here is Sarah Hurwitz, speechwriter for President Obama. For all the women in the piece, the resulting outfits clearly demonstrate the fact that one need not sacrifice feminine for professional, nor pretty for smart - or vice versa. The article includes more examples of work outfits that buck outdated office attire conventions but are still entirely appropriate. Especially for the spring season, the day dress is an easy solution for work wear that breaks away from the confines of the masculine pant suit. Seems the First Lady's influence is pervasive.

Style And Substance

2009-03-24T06:30:00.005-05:00

Michelle Obama has been much heralded as the new national style icon who has single handedly raised the bar on accessible, feminine, comfortable yet pulled together dressing. Here she is featured in Vogue wearing J Crew. A shining example of high-low dressing, she is wearing the labels, not the other way around. Her look is easy, tailored and always elegant without being stuffy. How could we not be inspired by her powerful presence, her accomplishments, and her personal twist on every outfit? Whether she's dancing at the inauguration, meeting with inner city high schoolers or planting an organic garden at the White house, she looks at ease and refined at the same time. A much welcomed influence on how to think about everyday style. Thank you Michelle!